With garlic and chilli The kitchen that returns

2008 Avui

Coinciding with the closing of the future fashion shows, before going on vacation we say goodbye to the gourmet season with a preview of the profiles that will set the trend in the rental market, also in the field of the monographic salons that have been announced for days: gastronomy sustainable and reissue of traditional cuisine, euphemisms included (popular, heritage, referential, memory, etc.).

Both concepts are, in short, closely linked, understanding that one and the other imply the recovery and subsequent use of local and seasonal products, ergo the return to rural markets, the emphasis placed on both organic agriculture and livestock as well as on all types of of organic foods, responsible consumption and other obligatory etc. In short, a change of cycle is announced to confront this paradoxically unstoppable globalization that is already taking its toll on the usual ones and is progressively beginning to cost a fortune that the first world consumer can no longer pay. In other words, whoever persists in the whim of eating cherries at Christmas and chestnuts in the middle of summer will expose themselves to being described as, at the very least, an unsupportive scoundrel.

One of the shocking aspects of this new attack is the constant and exhaustive enumeration of chefs from the innovative sector who have inaugurated, are inaugurating and will also inaugurate a retro stop, to the detriment of those who, with all the elements against them, have kept it splendid and On the contrary, they have been and still are stubbornly silenced. They have been deprived of media support for as long as the evolutionist hotbed has lasted, and they are now back in the news for embracing the predicament that the so-called costumbristas have never abandoned. The state of good health that they exhibit also demonstrates that demand has never been lacking.

In Catalonia and Barcelona there are impressive modern restaurants, without which the current restoration cannot be explained: Roig Robí de los Navarro / Crosas, Hispania, from the terrible Reixach sisters, Cal Pere del Maset, in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, Els Tinars los Gascones and many more who have not only persisted in their approaches obeying reasons of coherence, but have periodically updated and polished their facilities, incorporating new technologies, which they have been applying to the extent that the idiosyncrasy of their offers is has allowed it.

And that does not mean that the work of innovators should be underestimated or that they opt for flash-back based only on opportunistic motivations, quite the contrary, as before and as now, here and there there was and there is a place for all the that chooses to overcome the surrounding vulgarity, more than global, cosmic.


Text: Carme Cases